Philip White InDaily
December 7, 2017
Sevenhill St Ignatius Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc 2014 is already one step closer to heaven: the intelligence of its blending and structure have already got it hoisted way up past the rafters into the belfry. Lookout steeple! Oh? They haven’t built the steeple yet? Then lookout sky!
Leaving aside the mystifying notion that this upland ridge in dry old Australia manages to grow beautifully the Riesling of Germany and Austria alongside all these types which are classically the ingredients of great Bordeaux, let’s still point out that in 2014 vintage slowed and cooled after thick rain put an end to a burst of threatening heat, giving us mercifully elegant, beautifully aromatic wine like this.
After its petite, polite perfume, with all those fresh fruiterer’s berries and pretty confections wafting through from the lolly shop with the fairy floss next door, the flavours gear up with a touch of all those deep Cabernet greens: the teas and beet leaves. Meaning this wine still has a bit of a juvenile twist in it for now: three or five more years should see all that smooth out and shine over and you’ll reach a different altitude again. Which is not to say it’s not great fun now, chasing that big black angel around the steeple that will sure get built eventually.